Southeast Arizona in
Winter
January 16 to 24, 2008
Scenic photos by Scott Barnes and Patrick
Scheuer; Bird photos by Linda Mack
(To download the species list from this
trip in PDF format,
click here)
Wednesday, January 16
Arrival day. Participants arrived in Tuscon, and we checked into our hotel. Group meeting to discuss
trip schedule and expectations of each participant.
Thursday,
January 17
Our first day in the field started with a visit to Saguaro
National Park West near Tucson. We marveled at the towering
Saguaros; older specimens grow as tall as 50 feet and weigh up
to 8 tons. Among the huge cacti, including other species like
prickly pear, fish hook barrel cactus, and several varieties of
cholla, there were other desert plants including palo verde
(Spanish for green stick) and creosote bush. Some of the desert
birds we encountered here were Gilded Flicker,
Curve-billed Thrasher, Cactus Wren, and several
Black-tailed Gnatcatchers. Our next stop was the Arizona
Sonoran Desert Museum with its marvelous outdoor and indoor
displays, live animals, botanical gardens, and hummingbird
aviary. After lunch we went to Sweetwater Wetlands in Tucson,
where Karla quickly spotted a Harris’s Hawk
sporting a very full crop. A family of these beautiful raptors
has lived for years in the area and often dines on the local
cotton rat population. Several Soras called from
the reed-lined ponds, and dozens of male Yellow-headed
Blackbirds flew in squadrons overhead. We were losing
daylight and left to reach Reid Park before dark. There we had
great looks at two Lewis’s Woodpeckers hawking
insects and caching nuts. Also present was a wonderful
side-by-side study of four subspecies of Dark-eyed Juncos—what
a teaching moment!
Friday, January 18
Heading north from Tucson our first stop was Catalina State
Park, where the grassy margins of the parking lot held feeding
Pyrrhuloxias, Oregon Juncos, the ubiquitous
White-crowned Sparrow, Canyon Towhees, and six(!)
Rufous-winged Sparrows. Closer to the wash, we found our
staked-out Rufous-backed Robin, which
cooperatively sat still in a thicket, even changing positions so
we could see both dorsal and ventral sides through spotting
scopes. On to the town of Casa Grande and a local golf course
where a Northern Jacana had been present
since November. Despite scanning the two main ponds, we didn’t
see the bird. Linda found it basking in the sun on a protected
corner of the pond. Excellent scope views followed, including
looks at the bird’s incredibly long toes.
After securing lunch, we dropped south through the Santa Cruz
flats, a large and dusty area of farms and ranches. We located a
flock of Mountain Plovers and shared looks at the birds with a
curious and interested farm worker who stopped to chat. Shortly
after, a Crested Caracara was spotted overhead,
followed by a “white-bellied” Bald Eagle. To
complete the raptor trifecta, a Burrowing Owl was
detected along one of the many irrigation canals. Patrick found
our first Vesper Sparrow of the trip, and there
were quite a few Lark Sparrows in the area as
well. Our last stop was the Red Rock feedlot, brimming with
thousands of cattle and a famous little yard known as the only
consistently reliable place in the United States for Ruddy
Ground-Dove. We were lucky to find the male (there’s
usually a pair) tucked deep within a palo verde tree among a
dozen or so Inca Doves. Meanwhile, our first
Prairie Falcon of the trip buzzed overhead and
thousands of blackbirds flew off to roost.
Saturday, January 19
We started the day by making a quick stop in Green Valley for
White-winged Doves and displaying Anna’s
Hummingbirds. The rest of our morning was spent hiking
the lower portion of beautiful Madera Canyon: a lush riparian
area filled with Arizona Sycamores, Fremont Cottonwoods, Arizona
Blue Oaks, Alligator Juniper, and Pinyon Pine in the Santa Rita
Mountains. We eventually crossed paths with a roving
mixed-species flock, the highlights of which were 3
Townsend’s Warblers and a very cooperative Painted
Redstart (a first-class designer bird if there ever was
one!). Other interesting birds included Red-naped
Sapsucker, Hammond’s Flycatcher, Hutton’s Vireo, and a
quick look at an Olive Warbler. After lunch at the
Santa Rita Lodge where we watched Acorn Woodpeckers
actively caching nuts, we embarked on our big hike of the trip.
We headed up the old baldy trail, ascending a mile and half and
more than 1500 feet through a beautiful landscape of pinyon-oak-juniper
woodland with manzanita and madrone in search of a very rare
visitor from Mexico: Aztec Thrush. During the hike most of the
group had good looks at Yellow-eyed Junco and
Arizona Woodpecker that Dona found on the ascent, and
some folks got to enjoy close-up looks at Cassin’s Finches
feeding on the fruits of madrone trees. Just about the time when
the lead portion of our group began to descend, word went down
the line of birders spread out over a quarter mile or so of
trail that the Aztec Thrush was visible!
Scrambling and running ensued, and when all was said and done
everyone had good looks at this beautiful Mexican thrush, with
its intricate tail and wing pattern of mixed browns, white
spots, and white feather edgings. The thrush certainly made the
tough descent down to the vehicles a little easier to bear!
Leaving the Santa Ritas, we made a brief stop at Amado for
waterfowl, drove through the scenic Patagonia Mountains, and
made a brief late-day visit to Kino Springs. Patrick gleaned one
of only two Green-tailed Towhees of the trip here,
and a drake Cinnamon Teal swam in the small pond.
Just before dusk a Gray Hawk posed across the road
from the Patagonia High School—a great bird to close out a long
but very productive day!
Sunday,
January 20
We awoke to a very chilly morning at the Sonoita Inn and headed
back towards Patagonia. The temperature readout on Pat’s van was
19 degrees in some of the shaded canyons! Our first stop was a
return to Kino Springs where we found Lawrence’s Goldfinch:
an attractive, somewhat scarce, and erratic winter visitor to
the southwest. A Greater Roadrunner was visible
sunbathing by exposing its black skin to the sun for warmth.
Louise detected a Great Horned Owl (one of the
dusty-colored southwestern variety) taking a nap in the sun.
Next, we visited Patagonia Lake State Park where two birders
alerted us to the presence of a gorgeous male Red-breasted
Sapsucker feeding next to their campsite.
White-throated Swifts and three species of swallow were
hawking insects over the lake, and the cattail wetlands offered
views of Common Moorhen, Sora, and Marsh
Wrens. An initially enigmatic Empidonax flycatcher
eventually revealed itself (by sound) to be our only Dusky
Flycatcher of the trip. The lake had many Common
Mergansers and a few Eared Grebes. After
picking up lunch in Patagonia—some of us from “The Velvet
Elvis”—we went to the famous Patagonia Roadside Rest Area.
Towering red cliffs bordered the rest stop and several
Black Vultures were practicing “touch-and-go” routines.
We were able to dig up a trio of Black-chinned Sparrows
and a small group of Bridled Titmice included a
Hutton’s Vireo and a Cassin’s Vireo.
Just up the road near a small shrine we got brief views at the
American Dipper who was making this stretch of
Sonoita Creek its winter home; unfortunately the bird vanished
before we could enjoy longer looks. Next it was on to Harshaw
Road, where we drove through the beautiful Patagonia Mountains,
studded with oaks and junipers and covered with lush yellow
grass. We crested the top of a hill and witnessed one of the
best vistas Southeast Arizona has to offer: the San Rafael
Grasslands. Undulating treeless hills covered with lush grasses
extended to the horizon in all directions, and the late day
sunlight made it glow. In the distance the Huachuca Mountains
bore witness and slightly more distant ranges were visible in
Mexico, creating spectacular vistas. While the view alone made
this stop, we also saw an unusually cooperative flock of
Chestnut-collared Longspurs and our only
White-tailed Kite—thanks to Suzanne—of the tour.
Monday, January 21
We awoke to another very chilly morning of 21 degrees and
enjoyed a hot breakfast at the Gathering Grounds in Patagonia,
where a chat with some hunters revealed that we had a common
quarry: Montezuma (or Mearne’s) Quail. We drove through the
scenic Sonoita grasslands and stopped at the San Pedro House in
the San Pedro National Riparian Conservation Area. Huge
cottonwoods bordered the house, and the adjacent brush and
shrubs were alive with sparrows. A cooperative
Green-tailed Towhee was visible, as were a few
American Goldfinches among dozens of attractive
Lesser Goldfinches. The bookstore here provided a
shopping spree for all. Next it was on to the Sulphur Springs
Valley where we spent most of the afternoon at Whitewater Draw
Wildlife Area. There was a great owl show: a fearless Great
Horned Owl roosting in the open barn, a Long-eared Owl,
and 14 Barn Owls! Thousands of Sandhill Cranes
were loafing and calling; a snoozing flock of “white geese” was
composed of some 120 Snow Geese and 20
Ross’s Geese. A Black-necked Stilt foraged
in the shallows on its ridiculously long and bubblegum-colored
legs, a nearby male Ladder-backed Woodpecker
allowed close study, and Say’s Phoebes hovered in
their energetic hunting style. Later that afternoon we drove
north through Elfrida and Kansas Settlement enjoying 12
Ferruginous Hawks, some of the 121 Red-tailed
Hawks we tallied today, and great late day light on the
Dos Cabezas Mountains.
Tuesday, January 22
A quick spin around Willcox’s Cochise Lake yielded a big flock
of Common Mergansers, but little else. Along
Kansas
Settlement Rd we found the first of several Ferruginous Hawks
and Joe spotted a tardy Barn Owl flying in to its roost.
Scanning another field we noticed several Mountain Plovers—we
totaled 32 in the field! After a bathroom stop & some
miscellaneous shopping for leather goods, and coffee, we pressed
on, finding two Bendire’s Thrashers. The second
thrasher posed for extended scope views while our first
Golden Eagle soared overhead and hundreds of Sandhill
Cranes headed towards our mid-day destination: Whitewater Draw.
A sudden explosion of cranes and geese into the sky alerted us
to the presence of a predator, and Karla picked out a distant
adult Bald Eagle looking for a meal. It was our second Bald
Eagle of the day, the first being a third-year with its
osprey-like head pattern that gave us pause as it perched on a
pivot. Linda found a sub-adult Golden Eagle as well that cruised
over the parking lot. Heading north, we continued roadside
birding through the valley, finding flocks of Lark
Buntings, Northern Harriers galore, and a brace of
Long-billed Curlews. A stop at the Feria Farm pond
found us sorting though an assortment of ducks including
Canvasback, Redhead, and a Cackling Goose. Another quick
look at Willcox’s Cochise Lake near dusk didn’t produce any new
waterbirds, but did give us excellent looks at some 40+
Scaled Quail—or “cottontops” as they’re referred to
locally.
Wednesday, January 23
Pulling up stakes from Willcox we headed to the Dragoon
Mountains. We spent the morning at Cochise Stronghold, named for
the famous Apache Chief who used the area in the late nineteenth
century. Immediately after exiting our vehicles we heard the
delightful sound of Canyon Wren emanating from the
rocky cliffs. The oak-juniper-pinyon woodlands contained a
mixed-species flock of Bridled Titmice, a pair of
Juniper Titmice, Spotted Towhees, and an excellent
look at our only Rufous-crowned Sparrow of the
tour. A Western Scrub-Jay screeched from a
hillside, probably lost and looking for the rest of its flock
while the local gang of Mexican Jays patrolled the
campground looking for handouts. A stop at the Benson wastewater
ponds offered more looks at abundant Northern Shovelers,
Green-winged Teal, some Ruddy Ducks
approaching breeding plumage, an Eared Grebe, and
a few Barn Swallows. Our last stop of the tour was
the Holy Trinity Monastery at Saint David where we walked
through the San Pedro River floodplain among huge cottonwood
trees and a small pond. A weedy field provided us our second
opportunity to study a flock of 20 or so smartly-plumaged
Lawrence’s Goldfinches. Other species we enjoyed here and had
grown accustomed to included 2 Red-naped Sapsuckers,
Curve-billed Thrashers, and Abert’s Towhees.
Reluctantly, we piled back into the vans and headed to Tucson
for our final dinner together and a night’s rest before heading
home.
--Scott Barnes
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or email
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